How to read surf conditions

25 September, 2023

The term "surf conditions" describes the state of the ocean environment, which can have an impact on a wave's quality and a surfer's activity. Wave size, form, water temperature, water clarity, wind speed, and other elements all play a role in the surf conditions. In order to perform at their best, surfers seek out optimum circumstances that offer good speed, power, and wave shape.

Wave size refers to the height of the wave, measured from the crest to the trough. Larger waves are more difficult to ride but typically provide more power and speed. Smaller waves are easier to ride but lack power and speed. Surfers look for waves of the ideal size to maximise their performance. People refer to wave height in different ways. Some people measure a wave from the back - i.e. a 6 foot wave has a 10foot face, whereas other measure from the front of the wave. i.e. a 6 foot wave has a 6 foot face.

Wave shape refers to the shape of the wave as it breaks. Different wave shapes provide different types of rides. A steep, hollow wave with a sharp lip is great for performing air tricks, while a slow, rolling wave is better for cruising. Surfers look for waves with the ideal shape to maximise their performance.

Water temperature refers to the degree of warmth or coolness of the water. Warmer water is more comfortable for surfers and can make it easier to stay afloat for longer periods of time. Colder water can make it more difficult to stay afloat and can cause hypothermia if a surfer is exposed to it for too long. Surfers look for water temperatures that are comfortable to maximise their performance.

Water clarity refers to the cleanliness of the water and the visibility of underwater objects. Clearwater is desirable for surfing because it allows the surfer to see underwater obstacles, such as rocks and coral, that could cause injury. Murky water can make it difficult to see underwater obstacles and can be dangerous for surfers. Surfers look for clear water to maximise their experience.

Wind is an important factor in surf conditions because it affects the shape of the wave and the ride. If the wind is blowing offshore, the waves will break in a clean and orderly fashion, and the ride will be fast and consistent. If the wind is blowing onshore, the waves will break unevenly, and the ride will be bumpier.

You must evaluate the surf conditions now that you are aware of them.

Begin by assessing the wave size. Larger waves will provide more power and speed but may be difficult to ride. Smaller waves are easier to ride but lack power and speed. Look for waves that are the ideal size for your surfing abilities.

Next, assess the wave shape. Different wave shapes provide different types of rides. A steep, hollow wave with a sharp lip will be great for performing air tricks, while a slow, rolling wave is better for cruising. Look for waves with the ideal shape for your surfing style.

Then, assess the water temperature. Warmer water is more comfortable and allows you to stay afloat for longer periods of time. Colder water can make it more difficult to stay afloat and can cause hypothermia if you’re exposed to it for too long. Look for water temperatures that are comfortable for you.

Finally, assess the wind speed and direction. If the wind is blowing offshore, the waves will break in an orderly fashion, and the ride will be fast and consistent. If the wind is blowing onshore, the waves will break unevenly, and the ride will be slow and choppy. Look for the ideal wind speed and direction for the best conditions.

At Moana, you need an Easterly wind to be offshore. At Middleton, you need a Northerly wind to be offshore.

You can learn more in our surf lessons. See you at the beach!